Patuxay, a Baci, and a Birthday Party

The past week or two were full of many firsts: going to the Lao National Circus, bargaining at the market, meeting my host family and moving in there, going to the Lao Evangelical church and making many friends there, and visiting several Lao homes, plus a birthday party. Unfortunately, now I’ve taken too long to create another blog post, and now too much has happened to tell about it all in detail.

I’ll say more about this when I have pictures to go along with the words, but I should at least say that I moved to my host family’s house last Saturday, and things have been going well. We are a house of all women: my host mom (age 39–it isn’t impolite to ask a Lao person his or her age, which is probably related to the fact that you gain more respect the older you get) and her two daughters (12 and and her younger sister and her daughter (4). I’m glad to be living with a family, and they are very nice. The girls and my host mom are all gone from about 7:15 am to 6 pm, though, so I feel like I don’t actually get to spend that much time with them. I did get to have a lesson in Lao dance from the 12-year-old, though, when I found out that it is her favorite subject in school.

After language school one day this week, I rode one of my little host sisters bikes to Patuxay (a.k.a. The Monument). Lao people probably thought I was crazy, because I was a foreigner riding a child-size, pink Hello Kitty bike, but that’s ok. It was built in the 60s and was never actually finished, but now is an iconic spot in the city, and is surrounded by a park where many Lao people go in the evenings to watch the fountain lights display with Lao music in the background or walk the loop around the park. Lao people tend to really like to exercise, which was actually pretty surprising to me, I guess because of how laid-back the culture is. So anyway, Patuxay is one of my favorite places to get away to and people-watch. When I was there, I ended up having a conversation with a Lao university student who was selling phone cards there. He is studying English and was delighted that I was studying Lao, so we practiced together in both languages for close to an hour. It’s funny, I feel like I’m a lot more open to random encounters like that here than I am in the States. I don’t know if that is me changing and growing, or just the difference between the two cultures, or both. When the second stranger came over and wanted to talk, I kind of regretted the fact that as a Falang (foreigner) I really stand out and get a lot of attention, but it comes with the territory, I’m learning.

Patuxay as seen from my tuk-tuk going to language class

Another exciting thing this week was attending a birthday baci/party for fellow MCCer Matt, hosted by his host family. So this was exciting because I got to see another Lao family’s house and meet them and bacis are a very integral part of Lao culture. Lao people do it at any major event like a wedding or when a child is born, and apparently, also for birthdays. Actually, MCC had one for all of us newbies last week. The best way I can describe it is a blessing ceremony that comes out of the Buddhist/Animist traditions. There is a “tree of life” symbol made out of banana leaves and marigolds (or other flowers) and surrounded by sticky rice, chicken, money, and other symbols of blessing. All the participants sit on the floor around it, and the leader chants a blessing in Sanskrit. Then everyone takes small strings from the “tree” and says a blessing to the person of honor (and then other people) as they tie the string around that person’s wrist. This baci also included the fun twist of Matt’s host mother throwing handfuls of uncooked rice at everyone at what I assume were appropriate points in the chant.

The caption didn’t work for some reason, but this is the “tree” (that I helped to make! There are apparently pretty specific rules to follow, like how many marigolds on each stick.) with the baci strings hanging from it and the fruit and goodies surrounding it. Sticky rice is always served in woven baskets like that one on the ground.

Matt receiving a blessing from the baci leader, fellow MCCers Ben and Amy looking on

By the way, if you’re single, people blessing you at a baci will most likely wish for you many Lao husbands or wives. Also, I just want to add that it is a really humbling experience to receive encouragement and good wishes from so many people at once. I wonder how different American culture would be if we welcomed our guests or new coworkers like that.

And like people around the world, the Lao like to have fun. Matt’s family provided an amazing amount of food, and I loved attempting to sing Lao karaoke and dancing with all his host sisters, especially Kat. Prep for the party was lots of fun too: the little kids LOVED helping us blow up the balloons.

dancing with Kat, with Wendy, Matt, Amy, and Pontif in the background

Oh, one more thing…I’m wearing my first sihn (Lao skirt) in this picture.

hot (and red) after dancing with the host sisters